Liwa Desert, Abu Dhabi (CNN) — When Salam Almazrouei was a boy, he and his friends would play a game out in the desert that most people would find terrifying.

In the dead of night, despite being too young to drive in most countries, they would take cars out into the huge sea of sand dunes stretching from Abu Dhabi to Saudi Arabia, then turn the headlights off.

With only the moon to light the way, they would then race to see who could make it home in the fastest time.

It was clearly a game fraught with peril. Take a wrong turn, break down or get stuck in soft sand and you’d be on your own, miles from civilization, left to the mercy of a rising desert sun that could bring oven-like temperatures during the day.

“But we never got lost,” he says.

For Almazrouei, these seemingly identical dunes, stretching as far as the eye can see, are as familiar as streets are to a city dweller. Although occasional high winds can blow the sands around, the terrain, he says, never loses its familiarity.

This corner of Liwa Desert, also known as Rub’ al Khali or the Empty Quarter, has been home to Almazrouei’s Bedouin family for generations. Although they’ve now set up homes and businesses in Abu Dhabi’s towns and cities, the desert remains in their hearts and they return regularly.

And now the 46-year-old wants to share it. Inspired by his own extensive travels as a student and engineer, he’s tried to brainstorm ways to help people from beyond the UAE engage with and enjoy the magic of Liwa.

“At first, I came up with the idea of setting up a camp in the US, in California, complete with 70 Arabian camels,” he says. “But they didn’t allow it because of concerns over foot and mouth disease. And so we then said, ‘let’s set it up here.'”

Swallowed by sand

Liwa Nights features just a handful of tents pitched on a gentle slope.

Barry Neild/CNN

“Here” is a spot of almost otherworldly beauty. A smooth blanket of sand that gently ruffles out as far as the eye can see. At night, it basks under inky skies alive with stars. During the day, bright sunlight and blue skies.

It’s truly the middle of nowhere. It’s a two-hour drive south and west from downtown Abu Dhabi, through the small city of Zayed and then another hour south until the road reaches almost its last mile before it’s swallowed by sand.

On the outside, the tents’ white, sandstorm-battered exteriors look functional. Inside, they offer pure glamping luxury.

Ripping back the Velcro-sealed doorway reveals an aircon-cooled interior, lined with plush drapes, carpeted by a traditional rug and lit from above by an elegant lamp dangling from the tent’s lofty ceiling.

There’s a large, comfortable double bed made up with fine cotton sheets, a dresser, a wardrobe, a full-length mirror and a coffee table and chairs. A side curtain parts to reveal a proper bathroom, complete with flushing toilet and a shower kitted out with posh soaps.

If you can pull yourself away from contemplating the vast emptiness and adjust to the muffled silence of being so far from civilization, a good night’s sleep is a strong possibility.

“I don’t consider it as a hotel, but an experience,” says Almazrouei. “When you get to your room, you will be amazed that everything has been designed by us. When you are in your tent you are in luxury, but step outside and you’re in the desert.”

The tents are furnished with luxurious comforts.

Department of Culture and Tourism — Abu Dhabi

For food and entertainment,Almazrouei has built a more permanent structure nearby. Designed to look like a traditional Middle Eastern house from the 1800s, using imported African wood, it has a dining room, bar, indoor and outdoor seating and a souvenir shop.

On warm nights, illuminated by fairy lights or a flickering campfire fanned by refreshing breezes, it’s the perfect place to gather for a cool drink to hear tales of the desert. In the daytime, it’s the meeting place for activities including camel treks, falconry or dune bashing 4×4 drives.

The best time to visit is during cooler months from October to March. The place stays shut during summer when it’s too hot. The temperatures only relent, it’s said, in late August when a bright star called Sulhail appears over the southern horizon.

Roller coaster ride

If Almazrouei is behind the wheel for a Liwa dune bashing excursion, be prepared for a roller coaster ride. Using skills honed during his moonlit desert races, he’s a laid-back daredevil, plunging his dune buggy down near-vertical descents, or tilting it sideways along ridges, nearly to tipping point.

He navigates by the color of the sand, the vegetation and the shape of the terrain, making a beeline for Moreeb Dune, a colossal slope of sand that towers above a flat plain. Crowds gather here once a year for the days-long Liwa Festival, which includes 4×4 races up the dune. This year’s event is scheduled from November 22 to December 4.

On the way back, Almazrouei parks the buggy on a dune above the Liwa Nights camp. Here, poking out of the sand, is one of several giant bladders which are regularly filled with water to supply the tents. It’s trucked in as locally sourced H2O is way too salty.

This is one of the few signs of human impact on the surrounding scenery, which Almazrouei is eager to preserve. Before building the camp, he says he hired 60 people to work for two weeks to remove piles of trash left on the site by people camping for previous Liwa festivals.

He’s currently installing ranks of solar panels with the aim of making it 100% reliant on sustainable energy. And, he says, he’s installed more than 700 palm trees in the past year as part of an ongoing planting program to add shade and encourage wildlife in the area.

And while government officials who collaborated with him setting up the camp were, he says, encouraging him to add 10 or 20 tents to the 10 he currently rents out for about US$750 a night, he prefers to keep it small — evidently not in it to make serious money.

“We want to make it authentic and romantic and keep it as a place to come and switch off for a few days,” he says.

Amy Zhao, a US-based engineer recently on assignment in Abu Dhabi, is among those who have sampled Almazrouei’s hospitality at Liwa Nights — and enjoyed a slightly less relaxing ride in his dune buggy.

“I really like it,” she says. “It’s an exciting and unique experience. The tents were amazing.”

(CNN) — The UAE may have only just celebrated its 50th anniversary of independence but Abu Dhabi has a centuries-old past.

The largest of the emirates boasts an array of UNESCO World Heritage sites as well as some of the country’s most well-preserved forts which showcase its key geographical location over the centuries, telling the story of the Emirati people’s connection to both land and sea.

A short drive to the oasis town of Al Ain is where some of the most magical gems of the bygone generations come to life, a living museum paying homage to the country’s Bedouin roots. It’s a must for visitors to the UAE for a true taste of its authentic culture and heritage.

Known as the Garden City, Al Ain was once a vital green oasis on the caravan route from the UAE to Oman and is now home to several UNESCO protected sites.

Here are some of Abu Dhabi’s key archaeological and historical treasures.

Qasr Al Hosn

The 18th-century Hosn Palace, or Qasr al Hosn, began as a single watchtower in the 18th century and, as the complex grew, eventually became the seat of power until the late 1960s.

“There are beautiful stories about the palace told by people that used to live around this place,” says Nataly Leslie, a tour guide in the emirate. “The palace door was very much open for people to talk to the sheiks and tell them their concerns.”

Today, the palace remains a key attraction not only for tourists but Emiratis alike, who come and sit in the palace coffee shop to savor the place they have heard their ancestors speak of so fondly.

The palace also showcases local culture with regular exhibitions and events.

Al Ain Oasis

Al Ain is home to 100 varieties of date palm.

Barry Neild/CNN

The first of the UAE’s UNESCO sites was the dramatic Al Ain Oasis.

Set in the heart of the place known as The Garden City, the site dates back more than 4,000 years and is evidence of one of the first irrigation systems of modern times.

The system, known as “falaj,” took water from the nearby Hajar Mountains via a series of narrow waterways still visible today.

Visitors can take curated walking trails through the site which covers over 1,200 hectares and contains more than 147,000 date palm trees and 100 varieties of date.

The centuries-old falaj system was only updated in the 20th century with the introduction of pumps. An eco-center is also available for visitors to gain a deeper understanding of the ancient Bedouin irrigation systems.

Bidaa Bint Saud

A treasure trove for archaeology enthusiasts, Bidaa Bint Saud, an ancient caravan site, is located 25 kilometers (15 miles) north of Al Ain.

The fascinating area which once had a huge community of farmers extending all the way to the northern emirates, all utilizing the area’s network of falaj irrigation systems, features a rare Iron Age building and 5,000-year-old Bronze Age tombs as well as the towering Gharn Bint Saud.

This 40-meter-tall rock rises above the landscape with several ancient stone tombs at the top. Several of the discoveries from the area such as pottery, dagger blades, jewelry and bronze arrowheads, are now on display at the Al Ain National Museum.

Hili Archaeological Park

Dating back to the Bronze Age (3200 BCE to 1300 BCE) and Iron Age (1300 BCE to 300 BCE), this area shows evidence of the ancient life once dwelling in the area’s deserts.

Archaeologists have discovered villages, burial grounds and agricultural infrastructure from what is now referred to as the Umm an-Nar period, named after the island off the coast of Abu Dhabi where the remains of the culture were first discovered.

It is also home to the UAE’s largest collection of tombs and buildings from this period.

Jebel Hafit Tombs

In addition to being Abu Dhabi’s highest peak, Jebel Hafit (Hafit mountain) is also home to around 500 5,000-year-old tombs which mark the start of the Bronze Age in the UAE.

First discovered through excavations back in 1959, archaeologists found ceramic vessels and copper artifacts in the igloo-like tombs which showed the importance of maritime trade across the Arabian Gulf.

The single chamber tombs are a dramatic site offering a window into a time gone by.

Tour guide Leslie calls this one of Abu Dhabi’s “hidden gems.”

“Most people don’t know about all these discoveries in this area,” she says. “Even though the UAE is a relatively young country, it has ancient findings that prove that this area was once a busy place where history was made.”

Maqta Fort

This small but critical fort at the gateway to Abu Dhabi’s main island was erected in the late 18th century using basic materials such as coral stones, beach rock and sand and its tower would guard and protect Abu Dhabi for many years to come.

“While Qasr al Hosn developed into a place of great importance for the local people, Maqta Fort became a rest stop for people coming into Abu Dhabi,” says Leslie.

Al Ain Palace Museum

Al Ain Palace was once the home of the UAE’s ruling family.

dudlajzov/Adobe Stock

Once the home of the late Sheikh Zayed, the first president of the UAE, Al Ain Palace was lived in by the ruling family until the 1960s before they made the emirate’s city their permanent home as Abu Dhabi’s main island transitioned into a political and economic capital.

Visitors can get a glimpse of life inside the residence which stands as a memory of the time before oil was discovered in the mid-20th century.

Though not “old” compared to other sites in the emirate — the oldest building at the complex is from 1937 — it is made of the traditional materials of the era, dotted with the traditional courtyards which characterized such properties in the region during that period.

Now a museum, visitors can see the critical links between past and present and appreciate Abu Dhabi’s rapid transformation from Bedouin life to modern affluence.

“If you are a fan of history and want to learn about the royal family and traditional architecture of this time, this is the perfect place to go, says Shamsa Al Naqbi, an Emirati tour guide.

“It’s an insight into the life of the royal family, their rooms, the style of architecture, items they would use, so it’s a really nice place to visit to see the true history of the UAE. It also really shows the transition our ancestors made to the modern UAE we have today.”

Sir Baniyas Island Church and Monastery

A little off the beaten track is Sir Baniyas Island in the Western Region which can be reached by boat or flight from Abu Dhabi through the Anantara resort, which manages the remote island’s tourism.

Discovered in the early 1990s, the church and monastery is the only pre-Islamic Christian site found in UAE, explained Leslie. It’s the source of hundreds of artifacts offering a fascinating insight into life during this period.

“Like life in the UAE before the discovery of oil, the inhabitants of this settlement used the sea as their source of food,” she said. “They also kept animals like sheep and cattle and traded across the Arabian gulf and into the Indian ocean.”

Sir Baniyas Island is now a wildlife reserve, home to a wide range of protected animals from Arabian oryx to gazelle which visitors can witness first-hand on safaris.

Al Wathba, Abu Dhabi (CNN) — Drive an hour or so southeast out of the city of Abu Dhabi toward the emirate’s empty deserts and you’ll hit a landscape full of unexpected man-made creations.

The region of Al Wathba is home to a beautiful oasis-like wetland reserve created, so the story goes, by an overspill from a water treatment facility. Now it’s a lush terrain that attracts flocks of migratory flamingos.

Farther along roads lined with carefully planted trees, there’s the surreal site of an artificial mountain rising up on the horizon, its flanks buttressed by gigantic concrete walls.

And stray off the main roads onto the back lanes, you’ll encounter wide and dusty camel highways, where cooler evening temperatures see vast fleets of the humped beasts being exercised in readiness for the winter racing season.

But one of Al Wathba’s more unusual and elegant attractions is not the work of humans. Instead it’s been crafted over tens of thousands of years by elemental forces that, though they were at play millennia ago, offer insight into how the current climate crisis might reshape our world.

Abu Dhabi’s fossil dunes rise up out of the surrounding desert like frozen waves in a violent ocean made of solid sand, their sides rippling with shapes defined by raging winds.

‘Complex story’

The fossil dunes were formed over thousands of years.

Barry Neild/CNN

Though these proud geological relics have survived for centuries out in the middle of nowhere, they were opened as a free tourist attraction in Abu Dhabi in 2022 as part of efforts by the emirate’s Environment Agency to preserve them within a protected area.

Whereas Instagrammers and other visitors once needed all-terrain vehicles to ride up to the fossil dunes in search of a dramatic selfie backdrop, they now get a choice of two large parking lots that bookend a trail which meanders past some of the more spectacular landmarks.

Along the way are informative signposts that give some bare-bones information on the science behind the dunes’ creation — essentially, moisture in the ground caused calcium carbonate in the sand to harden, then powerful winds scraped them into unusual shapes over time.

But there’s far more to it than that, says Thomas Steuber, a professor in the Earth Science Department of Abu Dhabi’s Khalifa University of Science and Technology, who spent much of the Covid lockdown studying the dunes while unable to travel to other areas of geological interest.

“It’s a pretty complex story,” Steuber tells CNN.

Abu Dhabi’s Environment Agency dates the fossil dunes at between 120,000 and 150,000 years old. Steuber says that generations of dunes were created by cycles of ice ages and thaws that occurred between 200,000 and 7,000 years ago. Ocean levels dropped when frozen water increased at the polar caps and during these drier periods, dunes would’ve built up as sand blew in from the drained Arabian Gulf.

When the ice melted, leading to a more humid environment, the water table rose in what is now Abu Dhabi and the moisture reacted with the calcium carbonate in the sand to stabilize it and then form a kind of cement, which was later whipped into ethereal shapes by prevailing winds.

Destructive forces

Power lines stride behind the dunes, adding another dimension to the scene.

Barry Neild/CNN

“The Arabian Gulf is a small basin that’s very shallow,” says Steuber. “It’s only about 120 meters deep, so at the peak of the ice age, about 20,000 years ago, there was so much piled up on the polar ice caps that water was missing from the ocean. That meant the Gulf was dry and was the source of material for the fossil dunes.”

Steuber says that the fossil dunes, which occur throughout the UAE and can also be found in India, Saudi Arabia and the Bahamas, likely took thousands of years to form. But, despite the official protection now offered in Abu Dhabi, the erosion that gave each its unique shape will also eventually lead to their demise.

“Some of them are quite massive, but in the end the wind will destroy them. They are essentially rocks, but you can sometimes break them with your hands. It’s quite a weak material.”

Which is why, at Al Wathba, visitors are now being kept some distance from the dunes, although still close enough to appreciate their impassive beauty.

Touring the site is best in early evening when harsh daytime light is replaced by a golden glow from the setting sun and the sky takes on the lilac hues of magic hour. It takes about an hour to stroll along the sandy path from the visitor center and souvenir stall to the parking lot at the other end — and about 10 minutes to shortcut back.

The untouched serenity of the dunes is contrasted at some points along the trail by a chain of gigantic red and white electricity pylons that stride over the horizon in the distance. Rather than spoil the scene, this engineering spectacle adds a dramatic modern dimension to a landscape otherwise frozen in time.

As dusk settles, some of the dunes are illuminated, offering a new way to view these geological marvels.

Religious clues

At night, the dunes are illuminated.

Department of Culture and Tourism — Abu Dhabi

“The dunes look really amazing,” said Dean Davis, visiting the site during a day off from work in Abu Dhabi city. “It’s nice they’re being conserved and the government has done a great job.”

Ashar Hafeed, another visitor touring with his family, said he was also impressed. “I saw it on Google and just needed to come and take a look,” he said, adding that “once was enough” to appreciate the dunes.

Stauber and his team from Khalifa University are likely to be repeat visitors though.

“We’re continuing to study them,” he says. “There are quite a few interesting questions about sea-level changes during the recent ice ages still to answer and it’s very important for understanding the current geomorphology of the coastline of the Emirates. It’s also obviously an analog for future sea-level change.”

And, says Steuber, the dunes could be evidence of the inspiration behind the tale of Noah’s flood, which features in the Koran, the Bible and the Torah, the texts of the three major religions to emerge from the Middle East.

“Possibly, this was the flooding of the Arabian Gulf at the end of the ice ages, because the sea level rise was very rapid.

“With a dry Arabian Gulf, the Tigris and Euphrates rivers would’ve discharged into the Indian Ocean and what is now the Gulf would have been quite a fertile low lying area which 8,000 years ago would’ve been inhabited, and people may have experienced this rapid sea level rise.

“Perhaps it led to some historic memory that made the holy books of these three local religions.”

Abu Dhabi (CNN) — Cycling vacations usually conjure up images of pedaling across the French countryside, a baguette lashed to the handlebars, or perhaps a breezy ride along the flat and friendly bike paths that weave their way through cities like Copenhagen or Amsterdam.

They don’t usually involve the Arabian desert, where summer temperatures and intense midday sunshine can make it hot enough to explode bike tires.

But that could soon be changing.

A two-wheeled revolution is beginning to gather pace in Abu Dhabi, with huge investment propelling both residents and visitors into the saddle for cycling experiences that are like nowhere else on Earth.

Last year it was designated by sport cycling’s governing body, Union Cycliste Internationale, or UCI, as an official “Bike City” — the first in the Middle East and Asia to earn the accolade. Those searing temperatures mean it could literally be the world’s hottest cycling city.

At first glance, Abu Dhabi’s cycling credentials aren’t immediately obvious. Built using oil wealth, the UAE’s capital city and surrounding terrain are the domain of the automobile. Gas prices are cheap, roads are wide, speed limits — outside of urban areas — are very fast.

Look closer and it’s a different story. The past few years have seen miles of dedicated bike paths spring up beside new highways as the emirate has steadily established itself as the UAE’s gateway to cycling, introducing international races and nurturing homegrown talent.

Along the way it’s cooked up some exhilarating cycling experiences that, when added to Abu Dhabi’s extensive roster of other attractions, could be a major draw for both cycling fanatics and anyone looking to try something very different.

Unsociable hours

Ricky Bautista, far right, and a team from Dubai’s Beyond the Bike cycle shop at the Al Hudayriyat cycle track.

Barry Neild/CNN

Taking part can involve some unsociable hours though. In winter, milder climates are perfect for daylong riding, but from May to September, with temperatures sometimes peaking around 48 C (118 F), the best time for riding is before sun up or after sundown.

Which is why friends Andy Coleman and Dan Baltrusaitis can be found shortly after 6 a.m. on a Saturday morning pulling on their cycling shoes in a parking lot on Al Hudayriyat, an island south of the city that’s home to beach resorts and a beautiful purpose-built cycle track.

“Why I do it, I don’t know,” laughs Coleman as the pair wheel off onto the smooth asphalt to start their session.

Despite the early hour, they’re not alone. Dozens of other cyclists are flying around the network of circuits, which range from three to 10 kilometers and include an exhilarating over-water track. It’s mostly flat, but ferocious onshore headwinds can add to the challenge.

“It’s a great experience,” says Ricky Bautista, one of a gang of uniformed riders who have been blasting out laps since the first glimmer of daylight. Bautista’s team all work at a cycle shop in Dubai and have ventured over the border to try out the free facilities at Al Hudayriyat.

“I’m a beginner, but all of my coworkers are cyclists and they told me, ‘try it and you’ll have fun’,” he says. “It’s really challenging today because of the wind, but then you change direction and you feel like you’re flying and it’s more enjoyable.”

Numerous other clubs are also out chasing each other’s wheels on the circuit. Men and women of all ages can be seen blurring past the distant skyscraper skyline of the city’s financial zone. Some arrive by car and some ride from home. There’s also a bike bus.

Healthy lifestyle

The Abu Dhabi Cycling Club coordinates bike-related activity in Abu Dhabi.

Barry Neild/CNN

Established in 2017, the ADCC says about 1.7 billion dirhams ($460 million) has been poured into cycling with 445 kilometers (277 miles) of cycle track under construction. On the way are a new indoor velodrome and a bike path that will link up Abu Dhabi with Dubai.

The goal is to get as many locals as possible to take up cycling as part of a healthy lifestyle, but also to lure visitors. “One of the main objectives is to have more tourists come and have a bike vacation in Abu Dhabi,” ADCC Executive Director Al Nukhaira Allkhyeli tells CNN.

A keen cyclist himself, Allkhyeli can often be found training around one of the biggest highlights of the Abu Dhabi cycling scene — the Yas Marina Circuit. The racetrack loop that hosts Formula One events is regularly opened up to the public for evening or morning cycling.

Even for non-F1 fans, tackling the Marina circuit is a thrill, with gigantic grandstands looming up on either side of the seven-kilometer loop, plus the occasional superyacht moored with a view of the track. The roar of the absent crowds can still be felt echoing over the venue.

First-time riders will be torn between the need for speed or selfies as they swerve around the blacktop (avoiding accidental turns into the pit lane).

Surreal and satisfying

The Al Hudayriyat track includes an overwater section.

Departure of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi

There are more sedate — and indeed more extreme — cycling experiences to be had in Abu Dhabi.

Hardcore cyclists will want to head to Jebel Hafit, Abu Dhabi’s only real mountain, where a brutal switchback road to nowhere offers amazing views over the emirate and the chance to turn legs into jelly.

Another highlight in the desert is the Al Wathba cycle track, a smooth, purpose-built cycleway in the middle of nowhere that perhaps offers one of the most surreal and satisfying bike adventures in Abu Dhabi.

Cycling the Yas Marina F1 circuit is a thrill.

Barry Neild/CNN

About an hour drive from downtown, the entrance to the track sits in a little huddle of buildings that include a shower and toilet block, a small supermarket and a bike shop that rents out tired but serviceable carbon racing bikes by the hour.

It’s a regular daytime race venue in cooler months but in summer, the track comes alive as the sun sinks into the horizon. Solar-powered street lamps dimly illuminate loops of up to 30 kilometers which stretch away into the desert night.

Riding it solo is an exciting if slightly unnerving experience. It’s quiet out there among the dunes and, despite small pools of electric light, very dark.

There’s nothing to stop you blasting at maximum speed except the occasional drift of soft sand across the track. Here and there a blown bulb creates a mini-blackout that riders will need to hold their nerve to ride through without slamming on the brakes.

All-year riding

The UCI has awarded Abu Dhabi Bike City status.

Barry Neild/CNN

Cycling headlong into the inky unknown of a hot desert night might seem like a good metaphor for Abu Dhabi’s big-spending pursuit of a sport seemingly at odds with its climate.

But says Isabella Burczak, UCI’s advocacy and development manager, the emirate is on a clearly lit path to success having demonstrated a commitment and strong political will behind its vision to encourage and grow cycling for leisure, transport and sport.

Its Bike City status, she says, should help inspire it to keep achieving those goals as well as sharing knowledge and skills with a network of 20 other Bike Cities from Bergen in Norway to Wollongong in Australia.

And — if cyclists adapt by riding early or late, and provisions are made like employers providing showers for sweaty commuters — that heat won’t hurt it a bit.

“In all cases, hot weather, cold weather, I think solutions can be found to ensure that people can still take advantage of cycling for whatever reason,” she tells CNN.

And can it really rival the classic cycling destinations like France, Italy, Denmark and the Netherlands?

Thanks to that relentless desert sunshine, it already does, says Aditya Bhiwandkar, a cycling enthusiast and sales assistant at Wolfi’s.

“In Europe you have snow and rain,” he says. “But in Abu Dhabi you really can ride 365 days a year.”

Al Jubail Island, Abu Dhabi (CNN) — An intensely salty sea which warms to planet-beating temperatures at the height of summer is a hostile place for most vegetation to survive.

Yet in one corner of Abu Dhabi, where briny waters lap sun-scorched shoreline, there’s a forest not only surviving, but thriving — creating a natural sanctuary for wildlife and an extraordinarily peaceful escape from the intensity of the UAE’s desert and cities.

Jubail Mangrove Park is a green expanse of gray mangrove trees on the northeastern edge of Abu Dhabi’s Al Jubail island, where shallow tidal waterways spill out into the clear blue Arabian Sea.

Opened as a tourist attraction just before the pandemic, the park now has a handsome wood-clad reception center and a network of inviting boardwalks that thread through the trees and over the water, offering close-up views of the flora and fauna of this stunning spot.

It’s a tranquil world away from the shimmering skyscrapers and heat-hazed hustle of downtown Abu Dhabi, albeit just a short drive away. Visitors can while away hours here, listening to the call of birds, the watery slap of leaping fish and the lapping of waves.

“Being here is a healing process like yoga, especially at sunrise or sunset,” says Dickson Dulawen, a veteran guide who leads regular kayak or electric boat tours of the mangroves when the tides rise high enough to let small boats venture into the heart of the forest.

“If you’ve had a very bad day, it’s a great place to relax.”

It’s not just humans who benefit from the restorative powers of the mangroves. Scientists say the hardy trees are also helping restore the planet, soaking up and storing away carbon dioxide, encouraging biodiversity and staying one step ahead of climate change.

Dreamlike destination

The Jubail Mangrove Park is an unexpected green escape from the deserts of Abu Dhabi.

Barry Neild/CNN

The best way to see the mangroves working their magic is on the water, following guides like Dulawen in one of Jubail’s brightly colored kayaks. Tours run through the day, and sometimes at night, depending on tides.

Leading the way out via a man-made channel, Dulawen points to the crowds of tiny black crabs that scuttle on the sandy beds around the base of the mangroves.

The plants have a symbiotic deal with the crustaceans, he explains. They munch on discarded leaves and hide from predators in the branches, while also spreading seeds and breaking up the dense salty sediment, enabling root growth.

Those roots are something to behold. Gray mangroves send out a star-shaped network of cable or anchor roots which then sprout their own mini-forest of tubes known as pneumatophores, which poke above the water like snorkels, allowing the plant to breathe.

Pulling the kayaks up onto a pristine sandy beach that only emerges at low tide — a perfect desert island — Dulawen invites closer inspection of mangrove leaves which appear to be sweating salt. It’s part of the process that allows them to grow in seawater that would be toxic to other plants.

Dulawen points out some other plants that form the local ecosystem. There’s green and stubby salt marsh samphire, similar to the plant often found as a kitchen ingredient. He says local Bedouins have traditionally used it as a medicine for treating gassy camels or horses.

A yellow flower blooming on the roots of the samphire is a desert hyacinth, a parasitic plant often harvested for medicinal uses including, says Dulawen, a natural alternative to Viagra.

In the unrelenting heat of an Arabian summer afternoon, out on the water, the mangroves should feel intolerable. Yet, with bathtub-warm waves splashing over the kayaks as Dulawen gently points out a roll call of plants and creatures, a dreamlike quality hangs in the air.

Crab plover birds and green herons flap here and there among the trees, landing to stalk across the soft sediment. In the clear water, upside-down jellyfish can be seen drifting over the swaying seagrass. Dulawen says turtles are frequent visitors.

Ecosystem engineers

The gray mangrove roots sprout mini-forests of tubes which poke above water allowing the plant to breathe.

Barry Neild/CNN

The serenity of this corner of Abu Dhabi is partly down to the fact it’s off-limits to the jet skis and pleasure craft which buzz up and down other areas of coastline. Dulawen and his fellow guides help, assiduously scooping up any stray trash and chasing off unwanted guests.

“There’s no other place in the UAE that can compare to here,” he says proudly. “The clarity of water, the natural wildlife. It’s ideal.”

And it keeps getting better. Government and private planting programs have led to an expansion of mangrove areas in recent years, both at Jubail but also Abu Dhabi’s Eastern Mangrove Park. For every tree lost to development elsewhere, three more are planted.

This is an environmental success story, says John Burt, associate professor of biology at New York University Abu Dhabi, who can sometimes be found paddle boarding around the emirate’s waters as part of his team’s research to map the gray mangrove’s genetic data.

He describes the mangroves as “ecosystem engineers,” which not only build up their own habitats but create the perfect environment for scores of other species.

“They’re a hotspot for diversity,” he says. Crabs are happy because of their mangrove deal. Fish are happy because there’s plenty of food for nurturing their young. Fishers are happy because those young grow up to be commercially important harvests in deeper waters.

And birds are happy.

“These mangroves are on a migration route for many, many species of birds flying between Africa and Eurasia,” Burt says. “In the fall season we’ll see a lot of birds stopping to rest and feed in that area because it’s important not only for providing habitat, but also a ton of energy in the food web through dropping leaves.”

There’s something else too. In our era of climate change, Abu Dhabi’s super-resilient mangroves could hold the key to predicting how environments across the planet will adapt to global heating and rising seas, as well as helping alleviate some of the causes.

They’re important as a “blue carbon sink,” a marine ecosystem that takes in more carbon than it puts out, says Burt.

“They’re sucking CO2 out of the atmosphere through photosynthesis and a lot of that energy is going into the root system,” he says. “And when they die … all the CO2 it pulled out of the atmosphere will stay there.

“As long as you don’t disturb the area with development, that represents CO2 sequestration. It can have the capacity to offset some of the contributions we’re putting into the air for fossil fuel consumption.”

‘So much green’

A viewing tower offers beautiful sunset vistas over the dense forest.

Barry Neild/CNN

And, the professor says, because they thrive in the abnormally salty waters of desert coastal lagoons that in winter can actually get uncomfortably cool for a typically tropical species, Abu Dhabi’s gray mangroves could point the way to species survival elsewhere in the world.

His team is looking at specific genes in the local plants that are associated with “environmental robustness” including resistance to salt and to extreme temperatures, both hot and cold.

“I think that’ll be useful information for looking at a place like Indonesia or Thailand and wondering what’s going to happen to adapt for climate change,” he says.

Mangroves in other parts of the world may have the same tough genes as Abu Dhabi’s trees just waiting to be awakened in the right environmental circumstances. And observing those genes in action in Abu Dhabi could be a good sign.

“It lets us know there’s hope for systems like this,” Burt says.

Back on terra firma with Dulawen, there’s time for a stroll around the Jubail boardwalks as the sun sinks into an orange sky. It’s another peaceful experience, enhanced by a viewing tower that offers vistas over the dense leafy canopy.

In the calm cool of the evening, a few couples and families are enjoying the scenery, among them visitor Balaji Krisna.

“If you want to go and mingle with nature it’s a good spot and not far away from the city,” he says. “It is the only place in Abu Dhabi where you can see so much green.”

(CNN) — While modern Abu Dhabi can be defined by a space-age skyline and gigantic engineering projects, glimpses of the emirate’s traditional old world can still be found and — if you have the right guide to initiate you into the often private lives of locals — experienced by visitors.

One classic Emirati tradition is the ezba, a place that long played an important role in the lives of Abu Dhabi’s nomadic Bedouin tribes.

Not to be confused with a farm, the ezba was a place where families once raised animals — sheep, goats and native desert animals such as camels — and passed on skills to younger generations.

While modernization has slowly erased the need for the ezba, with many Emiratis now firmly at home in the UAE’s towns and cities, in the last five to 10 years the country’s government has sought to preserve this relic of times gone by.

And now it’s become an authentic way to show expats and tourists the ways of times past and the spirit of the Emirati people’s survival before the discovery of oil.

“Nowadays, with all of modernity around us, the UAE government made sure not to let this tradition die,” says Abdulazeez Manea, one of the young generation of Emiratis offering visitors to Abu Dhabi an authentic taste of local culture at his own private ezba.

At just 30, he is pioneering a new movement of young Emiratis who want to treasure their traditional ways.

“It’s a way to connect to history and culture, so the ezba serves that connection,” he says.

Stories and symbolism

Tourists and expatriates can now sample life on an ezba.

Abdulazeez Manea

They arrive in his quintessentially Emirati Nissan Patrol 4×4, which rolls up and down the dunes, giving his guests a taste of the lengths it takes to reach such a remote spot — one formerly reached only by camel or horseback.

Guests who come for the day typically join Manea on a walk through the sand as the sun is setting, hearing stories that form an oral history akin to the way tales were passed down from generation to generation by his ancestors.

They learn the symbolism of the majlis, or meeting place, and foods and drinks such as dates and coffee, which are synonymous with the ezba and Emirati hospitality.

Guests can also milk the animals, ride and interact with camels, and learn what it takes to care for the dromedary which was once the Bedouins’ only means of transport across the harsh desert terrain.

Before the discovery of oil in the UAE, family wealth was determined by animal ownership, Manea explains.

“Someone considered middle class would have 40 camels, while one was considered rich if they had 200-300. Wealth wasn’t currency but was measured in animals,” he says.

Visitors can learn the stories of Emirati life from traditional clothes — which they get a chance to try on — to customary greetings. Then there are tales of desert survival and the animals critical to that, and the journey these nomadic people went on to become one of the region’s most advanced and prosperous populations.

Barefoot in the sand

Abdulazeez Manea invites visitors to Abu Dhabi to taste local culture at his own private ezba.

Abdulazeez Manea

Visitors to the ezba may appreciate the natural beauty of the surroundings, interaction with the animals or the chance to learn skills like lighting fires. For many, it’s a rare chance to peer inside a sometimes mysterious Emirati world.

The desert silence amid the stables and fire pit stand in stark contrast to the hustle of Abu Dhabi’s busy city life.

“Everyone is craving this and we can see what a powerful impact it has not only for the visitors coming to experience this, but for the families,” says Manea.

“Children are not lost in their devices and people are genuinely bonding and spending quality time together. As the number of people owning ezbas has increased, so has that kind of social interaction.”

It’s not only tourists who are cherishing this revival. Emirati families view it as a way to stay connected to their identity.

“I see the farm neighborhoods very alive in the winter, especially with the children, playing with the animals, walking to the dunes next to the farms, learning about the plant life, insects and survival methods that we once depended on,” said Manea.

“In spite of all the amazing attractions we have, the most popular thing for Emirati families to do now is to come to the ezba, even for special occasions. The feeling of walking barefoot in the sand is something magical.”

Inside the enigma

Once remote places that could only reached by camel, ezbas now come with modern conveniences.

Abdulazeez Manea

The opening up of these private ezbas has come about following government investment in infrastructure, bringing electricity and water to once isolated spots.

Manea says he now feels like offering the experience to others is almost a duty.

“For me, being an Emirati comes with a burden, the burden of sharing an authentic story,” says Manea, who though he is a trained diplomat, is also an officially trained tour guide, connecting to visitors through Airbnb.

“There is the challenge of having a lack of Emiratis in the tourism sector interacting with tourists and nobody can tell my story better than me,” he said. “The ezba is almost the only remaining traditional experience.

“People told me they struggle to find these authentic cultural experiences usually but this was a way to touch the Emirati culture, the history, identity, ethos like hospitality. It showed that people want to learn more about my culture.”

Many members of Manea’s family now take part, allowing visitors, expatriates and tourists, to interact with the people who often remain an enigma to even those living within the UAE, where Emiratis are just 10-15% of the population.

“My nephews, nieces, siblings, elders, they all take part now,” he smiles. “I try to instil this into the younger members of the family showing there are always bridges to be built with people coming from around the world, showing them Emirati hospitality and culture.

“Our homes have always been open to everyone, so now with modern-style life things changed, but we can still send a message that we never closed our doors. No matter how much you meet your international friends in cafes and malls, it won’t touch them deeply the way it does meeting them in the ezba.”

‘Precious gems’

“No matter how much you meet your international friends in cafes and malls, it won’t touch them deeply the way it does meeting them in the ezba,” says Manea.

Abdulazeez Manea

Emirati Fatma al Mehairi, a member of the management team at Abu Dhabi’s Etihad Airways, says offering such authentic ways to engage with local culture is “priceless” and in “high demand” among visitors to the emirate and expatriates.

“It is interesting for expats living in the country as this gets them a better understanding of the heritage of the country they live in and makes people understand and acknowledge the Emirati unique routines and values,” she says.

Telling the Emirati story through the Emirati voice, is key, she says.

“It makes the experience richer to have locals being part of the tourism experience. We have so much to talk about and to offer. The UAE is a young country and we have developed so fast in such a short time but it’s also important to show others how we started and share with them that even with all these developments, we still respect our traditions.”

Teaching both young Emiratis and foreigners the ways of his people ensures these crucial elements of the tradition stay alive, says Manea.

“It shows the young that we can have the benefits of modern life without losing the old knowledge we would lose by moving away from these practices,” he adds.

“The more time I spend there, the more I learn about myself, my past, my family, my culture.

“I realized how important camels have been, and how much it took to take care of them. I need to preserve these precious gems. This indirect education must reach the next generation.”

Top photo credit: Abdulazeez Manea

Not because the Swedish furniture giant is now retailing self-assembly ships of the desert — although it probably would if it could.

The camel souk is one of the highlights of a day trip to Abu Dhabi’s second city Al Ain, a lush, laid back and historic escape from the emirate’s coastal capital.

It’s a journey deeper into desert, on the border with Oman, but one that leads to some of the best cultural attractions in a region more usually known for big buildings and big spending.

Al Ain Oasis

Chief among those attractions is the Al Ain Oasis.

Walking beneath the fruited date palms of this green space in the heart of the city, listening to the babbling of a nearby stream, it’s easy to forget you’re in a place that’s mostly desert.

This tranquil forest of tall trees and quiet walled lanes interspersed by a maze of waterways is all the more remarkable because, a few years ago, it almost vanished.

As Al Ain grew in the 1980s and 90s, the oasis was in danger of being swallowed up by development. Instead, planners pushed back, expanding the greenery out into the city.

The Al Ain Oasis is now a protected UNESCO site.

Barry Neild/CNN

The oasis’s delicate eco-system, farmed using methods thousands of years old, is now protected as a UNESCO heritage site, and helps give Al Ain its Garden City nickname.

A visitor center opened here in 2016 and cycles can be hired to explore, but for anyone tired of Abu Dhabi’s relentless heat, it’s more pleasant to stroll in the cool palm frond shadows.

Occasionally, visitors might come across one of the irrigation channels, known as falaj, springing into life as they direct water from nearby cisterns to thirsty date groves.

“I can just stare at these trees for hours,” says Usman Mustafa, an engineer on a break from working in Dubai. “This place is like a beautiful sanctuary.”

Al Ain camel souk

Young camels retail for about $1,000.

Barry Neild/CNN

Want to buy a camel?

Probably not, but many people do in Abu Dhabi, which is why the Al Ain souk still thrives as the last of its kind in the UAE — a throwback to ancient times in the modern shadow of Ikea.

It’s a spectacle worth checking out, particularly in peak trading hours soon after gates open at 6 a.m., when deals are sealed with arguments, mobile phone calls, handshakes and hugs.

Self-assembly camels? The camel market is just behind Ikea.

Barry Neild/CNN

Visitors are welcome and most traders — who hail from places like Afghanistan, Pakistan and Somalia — are happy to show off their animals when asked if it’s OK to take photos.

“They’re usually bought for meat by local people,” says Ghulsahib Khan, a veteran salesman from the Afghan city of Khost with a dozen boisterous one-year-old beasts to sell.

“These young boys have a good taste, they’ll give some nice meat,” he adds, saying they typically fetch about 4,000 dirhams, or $1,000, each.

The camels are usually bought to provide meat for celebrations such as weddings. Once sold, they’re loaded — sometimes reluctantly — onto trucks or pickups and driven away.

Once purchased, camels are driven away in trucks or pickups.

Barry Neild/CNN

“UAE people are good to trade with,” says Khan. “There’s usually some bargaining but the price is worked out quickly.”

Tougher deals are struck with folks traveling from Oman. Omanis have different tastes, Khan adds, pointing to a giant, angry-looking camel in the center of the clean marketplace.

“That’s one’s about 15 years old. No one’s going to eat him… except maybe Omanis.”

Al Ain Camel Souk, Zayed Bin Sultan St., Al Ain, Abu Dhabi

Jebel Hafeet mountain

Jebel Hafeet: The road to nowhere.

Barry Neild/CNN

Rising 1,400 meters up over the southern suburbs of Al Ain, Jebel Hafeet mountain offers epic views over largely flat Abu Dhabi and neighboring Oman.

There are popular springs at the bottom and nearby some Bronze Age tombs where archeologists have unearthed 5,000-year-old ceramic and copper artifacts.

Best of all though is the 11.7-kilometer mountain road to nowhere, which snakes its way to the summit on a twisting route that’s regularly name checked as a world-beating drive.

View from the top: Jebel Hafeet summit.

Barry Neild/CNN

Out of the car, there’s little else to do but admire the vista, perhaps from the swanky hotel near the summit, or sample the fare at the rather down-at-heel restaurant at the top.

The road’s a particular favorite for cyclists who relish mile after mile of 8% inclines under a sweltering Arabian sun and, no doubt, the effortless freewheel back into town.

Al Jahili Fort

Sunset citadel: Al Jahili Fort.

Courtesy TCA Abu Dhabi

There’s something very satisfying about the appearance of the Al Jahili Fort, which has been a focal point in Al Ain since it was constructed in 1891 as the local governor’s HQ.

Perhaps it’s that its crenelated mudbrick walls closely resemble a giant rendition of the sandcastles many of us have built on beaches. It looks exactly like a fort is supposed to look.

Rehabbed in 2007, the photogenic structure now houses a cultural center and permanent exhibit about Wilfred Thesiger, a 20th century British explorer famed for expeditions across the hostile arid deserts of the Arabian Peninsula’s Empty Quarter.

It’s a fairly quick visit, leaving time for more history fixes at the archeology-heavy Al Ain National Museum and the Al Ain Palace Museum, a former royal residence that offers a glimpse into a relatively recent regal past.

Al Ain Palace Museum: Regal past.

Barry Neild/CNN

Its hallways, rooms and lobbies feature more than 1,000 Swarovski chandeliers, which bring to light the palace’s iconic golden ceilings, according to the palace.

More than 1,000 Swarovski chandeliers fill the hallways, rooms and lobbies of the hotel.

Kuriakose and his team are tasked with the upkeep of the 2,000 square meters (6,560 square feet) of ornate ceiling adorned with 22-carat gold and silver leaves.

The gold leaf typically lasts for just four to five years, according to the palace, and so it’s constantly being replaced.

The price of luxury

About 50 gold leaves are needed to cover one square meter of ceiling, at an approximate cost of $100.

Kuriakose replaces about four to six square meters of gold a day. The Palace wouldn’t comment on exact costs, but based on calculations made by CNN, it spends about $130,000 on gold leaf every year.

“Wherever you look, you can see the gold leaf and silver leaf,” Kuriakose says.

The Emirates Palace cost more than $3 billion to build.

Thin sheets of pure gold are imported from Italy, then rolled, pressed and hammered between vellum, a fine parchment, until they become even finer.

Once the leaf is ready to be applied, the ceiling is prepared with a warm red base coat of paint.

Then a special glue is used to apply the gold leaf.

A new leaf

The Emirates Palace stretches more than one kilometer from east to west.

The team use their fingers to shape the delicate gold leaf.

“We fix the leaves one by one. It is very fragile, and you have to be very careful,” Kuriakose explains. “It is very thin, it can break. When you pick it up, if you’re not taking it carefully, and even your finger has the slightest movement, it can break.”

After the design is complete, the teams puts a final protective clear coating over the leaves to protect them.

“Guests see us and get excited,” he says of the delicate process. “They stop, they watch, they ask questions. They are very curious to get more information.”

With the hotel buildlings stretching more than one kilometer from east to west, Kuriakose describes the job as a “never ending process.”

“I’m sure there is no other hotel with this much area of gold leaf,” he adds.

A cultural hub, shoppers’ paradise and home to everything from souks to super clubs, there’s definitely plenty of places to indulge.

Here’s our pick of seven great things to do and places to explore in the emirate at night:

Kayaking under the stars at Louvre Abu Dhabi

Floating serenely on its own island, Louvre Abu Dhabi has been quite rightly basking in the limelight since it opened in 2017 to the tune of $1 billion.

As one of the capital’s most exciting new cultural destinations, visitors have been flocking in their droves to marvel at the Jean Nouvel-designed masterpiece and enjoy the rotating exhibitions, and it’s even more impressive after dusk.

With opening hours stretching late into the evening, visitors can head to the rooftop bar Art Lounge for sunset cocktails and breathtaking views, while the more adventurous can opt for a thrilling kayak tour.

The 60-minute tour across the Arabian Sea (which runs at certain times throughout the year) allows design fans to learn more about the impressive architecture and experience the wonder close up under the starry sky, with special full moon tours also available.

Bedouin experience at Shangri-La Hotel

With Abu Dhabi’s rich Bedouin past firmly ensconced in its culture, visitors can now experience a real taste of Arabia in five-star surroundings.

The city’s majestic Shangri-La Hotel is embracing its local heritage by offering guests an unforgettable experience under the Bedouin gazebo, with the culinary team offering a sumptuous tailor-made feast bursting with Arabic flavors on request.

Guests are invited to move onto an Arabian carpet by the canal for dessert and shisha where they can enjoy the beachfront ambiance, taking in spectacular views of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.

Shop, dine and play at Al Maryah Island

Shopping in the Middle East is practically a national pastime and, more excitingly, Abu Dhabi is home to some of the most impressive super malls.

Step forward the shiny new kid on the block, The Galleria Al Maryah Island. This one-stop destination is a shoppers’ paradise and it’s already causing excitement in the capital with its excellent portfolio of designer boutiques and high street favorites.

Sunset tours at Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Renowned for its magnificent architecture and, at just 12 years old, already one of the world’s most-loved landmarks, Abu Dhabi’s Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is truly one of a kind.

The iconic mosque attracts millions of visitors each year and unsurprisingly, given its spectacularly ornate design, it’s also one of the most popular photography spots in the capital among tourists and celebrities alike.

There’s no better time to visit than at dusk. With the stunning white minarets and reflective pools framed against the soft pink light as the sun goes down, it’s nothing short of magical. Catch the sunset tour and make the most of the romantic “golden hour” lighting, which is perfect for Instagram shots where you’ll be able to marvel at the mosque in all its glory.

Tee Time at Abu Dhabi Golf Club

Whether you’re a first-timer or golf pro, nothing beats the experience of playing a round at one of the most luxurious golf resorts in the Middle East.

Abu Dhabi Golf Course is a tranquil oasis carved in the middle of the desert and alongside its pristine courses it also prides itself on offering “more than just golf.” True to its word, there are plenty of leisure activities, social events and dining options.

The best part is you can take a swing on the championship courses by day and head to the garden course at night where the powerful floodlights and 9 p.m. tee times ensure golfers can continue playing well after the sun goes down.

Party on Yas Island

Here to party hard? Try MAD on Yas Island.

Courtesy MAD on Yas Island

With a roster of international DJs and a reputation of being one of the best clubs in Abu Dhabi, there’s no better place to dance the night away than MAD on Yas Island.

The UAE’s largest indoor nightclub doesn’t disappoint with captivating interiors and huge LED screens, lasers, themed parties and performances from world-class artists.

Renowned for hosting legendary parties, those in the know head to the island’s super club for a night to remember and with so many celebrities flying in for gigs, there’s no telling who you’ll rub shoulders with on the dance floor.

Midnight strolls on the Corniche

Abu Dhabi’s famed corniche is always a hive of activity, but it really comes alive after dark.

The manicured waterfront spread across eight kilometers is the perfect place to head for a romantic stroll along the beach, cycle around the track or people-watch from the buzzing local eateries.

Fancy panoramic views of the emirate from dizzying heights? Look no further than the magnificent Marina Eye Ferris Wheel, which dominates the city’s illuminated skyline on the Corniche Breakwater, and boasts 42 air-conditioned capsules including a VIP pod complete with leather seats.

Thrill-seekers can head to the Corniche Skate Park to join the city’s skateboarders busting a move with the BMX bikers and in-line skaters. Those who don’t fancy showing off their balance skills can watch the action from the sidelines and prepare to be impressed.